Bown's Bespoke
Independent reviews of the world's finest tailors & outfitters by the acclaimed critic Francis Bown and his team.
Independent reviews of the world's finest tailors & outfitters by the acclaimed critic Francis Bown and his team.
Bespoke shoes are not just footwear. They are works of art. At least they are if they are made by the firm of George Cleverley & Co., which I believe makes the finest shoes in the world. Its modest but elegant emporium, just off London’s Bond Street, has been my destination so many times over the years that I now regard it with the sort of affection most people reserve for their favourite picture gallery. Art requires skill and craftsmanship (‘conceptual art’ is nothing more than the modern form of the Emperor’s new clothes), and both are present in abundance at number 13 The Royal Arcade.
The acquisition of a bespoke suit is a delightful experience. But – like most of life’s more worthwhile occupations – it is not without its complexities. Many gentlemen, quite properly, have sent questions to me about this or that aspect of buying a bespoke suit. I therefore think it appropriate to offer the following observations – which, I hope, will be of some modest assistance to anyone who is about to embark upon this particular sartorial adventure.
Nowadays many gentlemen are content to buy ready-to-wear overcoats. Indeed, some years ago I was shocked when my tailor at the time – in the very act of taking my measurements – told me that it would really be more sensible to acquire an off-the-peg garment. This sort of defeatism really will not do. Sartorial standards should be maintained even when – perhaps especially when – one is in the open air on a cool day. I therefore offer the following guide, modest and inadequate though it might be, in an attempt to encourage those who are contemplating the purchase of a bespoke overcoat.
