At number 77, I found the two gentlemen who could help me in my quest: Richard Harvie (pictured, with scissors) and Richard Wood (pictured, measuring my neck size on a previous visit). The first is the co-proprietor; the second is the cutter. They had already made day shirts for me (see separate article), so my exact measurements were in their files. But now there were different requirements to be discussed. And it was pleasing to be able to talk about them with such knowledgeable fellows. Their expertise produced for me exactly what I wanted, so I here present to you the details of the shirt which was mine after the usual wait of several weeks.

First, the material had to be smooth cotton. For shirts (but not for white waistcoats and white bow ties) I have a serious aversion to Marcella. It is, I am reliably informed, not liked by our Sovereign. And if it is not liked by our Sovereign, it is not liked by me – although my own taste in this matter was formed before I knew the view at the Palace. There is something about the ‘bubbled’ appearance of a Marcella shirt front which is unsatisfactory. It is simply not ‘sharp’.

The shirt I wanted would need to have doubled material for the bib and for the single cuffs, ready for the heavy starching they would receive at the laundry (Barkers of Bournemouth) – for both the bib and the cuffs need to be as stiff as firm cardboard when worn. There would, of course, be provision for the separate wing collar (available from Harvie & Hudson for £10.50). On the front of the bib I decided to have two holes for studs. Three holes are quite acceptable, but I find the appearance of three dress studs in this relatively restricted area a little fussy. (Many dress sets include three studs along with the cufflinks, and so – given my propensity to lose items of jewellery – this regime provides me with a ‘spare’.)     

Now we come to the more arcane details – all of which can be seen in the accompanying illustrations.

A dress stud can be a beast to fit. Various designs are available. The stud can be in a solid piece; it can have a front which screws into the back; or it can have some sort of hinge mechanism. Of whichever sort, it will need to be inserted into the shirt without ruining the beautifully starched bib. Few things are more frustrating than finding one has ruined one’s appearance because of a long and angry struggle with a dress stud before dinner. The answer is to be able to get one’s hand to the back of bib without causing any crease in the starched front. This is permitted by having an opening at the side of the bib, preferably on the side opposite one’s dominant hand. Thus, as I am right-handed, my opening would be on my left side. With my left hand inserted, it is relatively easy to hold the back of the stud while I screw in the front with my right hand.

To keep the bib flat throughout dinner is the ideal. A bulging shirt front does no good to anyone. Two features of the shirt are designed to prevent this. First, a tab at the bottom of the starched bib is attached to the top button of the fly of the trousers. I find it helpful to have this tab made with two buttonholes, so that some adjustment can be made in the tightness of the downward pull – but it is important that there should be such pressure. And second, a loop is provided on each side of the bib. Through these two loops the braces are threaded. The tab and the loops are, of course, concealed once the waistcoat is worn.

The final helpful feature is at the back of the neck – another loop, through which the bow tie is threaded before it is tied. This prevents the tie from moving up the back of the wing collar.

You will not be surprised to learn that my new stiff-fronted bespoke dress shirt from Harvie & Hudson is a fine piece of work. At £250, I also consider it good value. It certainly makes my outings to ‘black tie’ events even more pleasurable.